The Canadian Rockies is a sedimentary range of peaks running North to South along the great divide from Mexico to Alaska. This vast range is protected in part by four interconnected National Parks; Jasper/ Banff/ Kootenay/ Yoho. It features vast tracts of undeveloped wilderness, extensive glaciation, and is world famous for its rugged, wild character.
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The Canadian Rockies
The Canadian Rockies in the wintertime showcases its true glory, with snow highlighting the horizontal rock banding, and azure ice lines streaking down the flanks of archetypical mountains such as Chephren, Cirrus, Temple, and Snowdome.
Visitors are drawn to the region for the outdoor activities, and a number of world class ski resorts operate here. Lake Louise, Sunshine, and Kicking Horse are among the better known ones. Cross country skiing, ski-touring, snowshoeing, and of course ice climbing are also popular.
With over 800 frozen waterfalls to choose from, it is possible to find routes suited for any ability level, and any weather conditions. Whether you looking for your first ice climbing adventure or coming back to tick a huge testpiece, it can be found here.
The Rockies has cragging ice and mixed venues that are practically roadside, and mulitpitch routes that you can walk to from town. For the more adventurous there are remote lines that can be approached on overnight trips on skis.
Where
Calgary, Alberta is a large city with an international airport. From hear it is a one hour drive to Canmore, the gateway to the Rocky Mountains. Banff is 10 minutes west, and Lake Louise another 45min. drive.
The majority of routes are accessed from the highways between Golden/Jasper/Canmore. Most climbers base out of Canmore, Banff or Lake Louise, all of which offer all the amenities needed for an ice climber. Climbs are done as day trips from whichever town we are based from. It is possible to switch towns during a trip to concentrate on a particular area. Additionally there are hostels located on the Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper.
Season
According to climbing legend B.B. “We’ve got it here, acres of wonderful azure and chrome ice, so many routes to do. A destination for ice climbers worldwide. It doesn’t matter how desperate the rest of the world is for ice, it’s always happening here.”
To the delight of local ice climbers the winter season consistently extends from Nov 1st to early April 1st every year.
Early season routes are scratched up in October, and I have climbed waterice in great shape in early May. November and December are often neglected but can the best time to access certain routes before the snows come and create undesirable avalanche hazards. Dec, Jan, Feb are the deep winter months, when its guaranteed that routes of all aspects and elevations will be in. March with its longer days is a prime month. Temperatures are consistently sub zero Celsius, however cold and warm snaps can occur at anytime throughout the season.
There is no accurate way to predict the weather for your trip from months or weeks in advance, but it is guaranteed that their will more than enough ice to climb from November 1 to April 1 every year. We have the option to choose suitable climbs for any conditions, and I have yet to be skunked on a days climbing due to weather.
The Bow Valley
The Bow valley stretches from Canmore to Lake Louise and offers a huge variety of routes in terms of difficulty, access and length. Everything from the mighty Trophy Wall in Banff, to friendly climbs and crags like Grotto Canyon reside here. Weather conditions are often very localized allowing us to find the best conditions for the day by moving from one end of the valley to the other. Whether you are looking for mixed, ice, mulitpitch, cragging, this area holds something for everyone.
Banff and Canmore
Banff
Banff, Alberta is 1 1/4 hour drive west of Calgary and 15 minutes west of Canmore. Located just off the Trans-Canada Highway (highway 1).
Approximate Population: 9,400
Banff, known worldwide as a ski-resort town, is also in the heart of ice-climbing country. Located inside of a National Park, this mountain town has an international feel with its many cafe’s, restaraunts, and nightlife. Backpackers and jetsetters visit the area for the ski-scene and the chance to explore the surrounding area. Located closer to the local ski-hills than Canmore, and with more hustle and bustle, this town is great for extroverts and downhill skiers.
Canmore
Canmore, Alberta is 1 hour drive west of Calgary, 15 min east of Banff. Located just off the Trans-Canada Highway.
Approximate Population: 17,000
The first train rumbled through Canmore in 1884 and a tiny settlement sprang up at the dividing point on the rails. In 1988 the Calgary Winter Olympic Games ushered in a new era. The cross-country ski and biathlon events were held here at the Canmore Nordic Centre, a facility built especially for the Games. Since then Canmore has been recognized for its recreational opportunities and high quality of lifestyle afforded by the mountain setting.
Canmore offers many outdoor activities in winter and summer, fine dinning, and warm and friendly locals. It also offers the best ice climbing in the world.
